Macun Brick Carving Tombs: A Journey into Song–Jin Dynasty Life

Macun Brick Carving Tombs are hidden in Macun Village, Jishan County, Yuncheng, about a 1.5-hour drive from downtown Yuncheng. The village earned its name, meaning “Horse Village,” because General Gao Huan once kept his cavalry here during his campaign against Yubi City in the Northern Dynasties period.

As of July 2025, eight tomb chambers at Macun Brick Carving Tombs have been opened to the public.

This article focuses mainly on Tomb No. 8. Inside the chamber, a brick-carved “wooden” door is painted red. A woman dressed in sheer garments peeks out from behind the door, leaning forward slightly and smiling gently at visitors—an unexpectedly vivid and human moment deep underground.

On both sides of the tomb chamber are brick-carved wooden doors. The upper sections feature dense, double-layered patterns, while the middle and lower panels are filled with elaborate floral designs. The craftsmen even carved nail holes and wood grain into the doorframes and joints. Although made entirely of brick, the doors appear almost indistinguishable from real wooden ones.

The tomb layout of the Song–Jin period resembles a courtyard enclosed by surrounding rooms. At that time, coffins were rarely used. The deceased were laid directly within this “courtyard,” as if continuing daily life—watching performers sing and act, then returning indoors to rest. This belief in treating death as a continuation of life gives the tombs of Macun Brick Carving Tombs a surprisingly warm and intimate atmosphere.

The Song Dynasty marked the peak of traditional Chinese painting, and the tomb design reflects the literati aesthetic of “blank space.” Visitors naturally imagine spacious halls behind the carved doors and windows, or a large interior room behind the beckoning woman. In reality, this atmosphere is carefully constructed—behind the brick carvings lies only compact yellow earth.

Most chambers at Macun Brick Carving Tombs share a similar structure. The entrances are quite small, only about 1.3 to 1.4 meters high, raising the question of whether a tall, strong-built person could comfortably pass through.

The tomb complex was used by four generations of the same family, spanning different periods and artistic styles. The earliest generation, the family founders, are depicted sitting in a single-story house, drinking tea and eating pastries—relaxed and content, like ordinary people enjoying their own courtyard.

The tombs of the second, third, and fourth generations become increasingly luxurious. Their chambers feature complex spatial designs supported by double-layered bracket sets, with more refined decorative patterns. In one tomb, a row of brick-carved peonies near the entrance bends sideways as if blown by the wind; the peony in the middle blooms upright, while the one at the back remains a bud, untouched by the breeze. Such refined details—created during the turbulent Song–Jin era—clearly reflect the family’s wealth and status.

A newly opened tomb relocated to Macun Brick Carving Tombs from Yuanjiazhuang Village in Yanhu District appears much simpler in structure, yet it is fully painted. In the traditional “door-opening scene,” a maid is shown with blushed cheeks and red lips, adding striking realism.

In the murals, the husband and wife from Yuanjiazhuang sit facing each other, drinking together. They could never have imagined that after resting peacefully underground for eight or nine centuries, they would be relocated. Fortunately, they remain buried in Yuncheng, among fellow locals—perhaps they do not feel entirely alone.

Practical Tips

1. Hire a guide or professional interpreter—without explanations, the brick carvings are difficult to understand.

2. Bring a folding fan. There is no air conditioning underground; ventilation relies entirely on natural airflow.

3. Wear non-slip shoes. The brick-carved floors can be extremely slippery.

Hidden Bonus

At the entrance of Macun Brick Carving Tombs, visitors can receive a free brick-carving guide booklet (limited to 50 copies per day), usually gone before 3:00 p.m.